Now that you are on your way with your healthy hair journey, you may still be a little confused about the lingo you hear on these hair boards. I know when I first started, I hate to ask all the wonderful ladies that were already helping my so much to explain their explanations lol. So this is a basic glossary for many terms that are often thrown around, but you may not fully understand. They are also terms you will hear a lot on this blog. I will update this post as I think of new ones, so if there is ever something you don’t understand refer back to this post. If it’s not on here feel free to email me and I will gladly add it!(look under the lable decoder)
Co-Wash--- To wash hair with conditioner. This allows you to cleanse the hair without stripping it of moisture, as shampooing tends to do. Co-washing is also a great way to add moisture to your hair, and it is a great way to help stretch those relaxers.
Pre-Poo--- any thing you do to pre prepare your hair for shampooing. This can be a hot oil treatment, a protein treatment, honey, or conditioner. It is the first step for many on wash day, so that their hair is not so completely dried out in the shampooing process. I like to Pre Poo with VO5 Conditioner and essential oils. It not only moisturizes my hair, but it also treats my dry itchy scalp.
Deep Conditioning—Is simply a treatment that is used to help restore balance to the hair. There are several different types of deep conditioners available, but they are thicker than regular conditioners and should be used atleast once a week. I like to deep condition for 30 with heat or atleast an hour without heat, and sometimes over night. You can also deep condition on dry hair before your wash, which serves as a pre-poo.
Baggy- this is a way to replenish moisture to the hair. There are different ways to baggy, but the basics are moisturize, seal, and apply a sandwich bag to the ends, or a plastic cap to the entire head, which ever you prefer. I don’t like to baggy for more than an hour, because it leaves my hair a little too moisturized and mushy feeling, but through trial and error you can find what works best for you.
Moisturize and seal--- This is the process you should use to add moisture to your hair. Choose water based moisturizer, and apply throughout your hair, focusing on the ends. Then choose carrier oil and apply on top of the moisturizer, once again focusing on your ends. Since black hair is so naturally porous simply adding moisture alone will not be enough. We must seal it in with an oils because oil molecules are larger than water molecules so moisture cannot escape.(yes it is a science to it). Oil alone CANNOT penetrate the hair shaft therefore they are not moisturizing. You’ll need both in order to keep hair healthy.(coconut oil is the only oil know to penetrate the hair, but I would still recommend using a water based moisturizer for maximum moisture)
Stretching--- waiting at least 8 weeks before re relaxing hair. Stretching really is an art form because managing the two hair textures can be a nightmare. It is important to stretch your relaxers to avoid over processing the previously relaxed hair. Stretching also helps retain length.
Protective styles—These are styles that keep ends up of your clothes and protected from the elements. The ends are the oldest and weakest part of your hair so they must be cared for as such. Protective styles include, buns wigs, sew-in weaves and braids. See my blog on protective styles for great tips.
low manipulation styles(braid outs. Roller sets, bantu knots oh my)—These are styles that do not require heat. They are a fun way to enjoy the length and health of your hair without experiencing any set backs from heat styling. Some styles are easier to achieve than others, but as with everything practice makes perfect. Check blogs and youtube for some great tutorials.
Shedding/breakage.- understanding the difference between shedding and breakage is key to understanding what your hair needs. On average a person sheds between 50-100 hairs a day. Shed hair will have a root attached to the end. (A white bulb) Hair that is broken will be shorter ans not have the white bulb. I don't know if its possible to be relaxed and have no breakage, but it should be minimal. if there is a lot of breakage then you have to determine what is causing the breakage.(see my posts on moisture/protein balance)
Direct/indirect heat—direct heat comes from curling irons, flat irons and blow dryers. This is extremely damaging to your hair and when applying direct heat you should always used a heat protectant, and it should never be used on the highest setting. Most importantly you should use direct heat in moderation. Indirect heat would be sitting under a hooded dryer or bonnet. It is often used to deep condition or when roller setting.
MN—Miconazole nitrate, a popular growth aid, it is also the active ingredient in many topical antifungal creams. There are several others, however I chose to use Mn because it is cheap and I can pick it up at most drug stores.
Relax, textlax, natural--- relaxed hair is fully processed chemically treated hair(bone straight). Texlaxed hair is only partially processed and still retains some of the natural curl pattern. Many women chose to texlax because it gives the hair a fuller more natural look, but still has the conveniences of having relaxed hair. Natural is just that natural, untreated hair.
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