5 (and a half) Tips to Length Retention.

(May 2015)

People use to always ask me what I used in my hair to make  it grow. It tripped me out because although my strands are thick,  I've never had "good hair".   Before learning how to care for my hair I assumed  that damaged and broken off hair was just my cross to bear.

It wasn't until my early 20's that I  even thought about trying to grow out my hair. Since then I have spent countless hours testing and researching every tip, trick and easy hair fix under the sun. I've taken all the vitamins, tried all the techniques, I even mixed yeast infection creams and other kitchen concoctions all in an effort to get my hair to grow faster.

After putting in my 10,000 hours, I've learned that the rate that my hair grows isn't the problem> My problem (and probably yours too) was with retention. It doesn't matter how fast your hair grows if it is breaking off just as quickly. The best way for your locs to prosper is to focus on maintaining the hair that you have. Unless there is an underlying medical reason, most people have a growth rate of about 1/2 an inch a month. That's 6 inches a year! Bitch do you know how much 6 inches is?!?!  A lot of these miracle vitamin and creams might get you an extra inch a year, but as for me and my budget, the results don't justify the cost. I'd rather spend my time and coins keeping my hair happy and healthy. That's the only way it will thrive.

Here's what I learned:

1. Be Consistent! Set a regimen and stick to it. You can adjust it to fit your hair needs as often as that changes, but  you need to be intentional if you want to see results.
2. Wrap it up! Bonnets, scarfs satin pillow cases. Use them Every.Single. Night.
3.  Deep Condition! It forgives all hair sins. Do it weekly
4.  Be kind to your ends! Protective  and low manipulation styles are great for this. This one is hard for people sometimes but if you are trying to maximize retention than you've got to find some styles that you like, that are also gentle on your hair. PUT THE FLAT IRON DOWN! Braidouts, twistouts, braids, buns Rollersets, wigs, sew-ins.
5. CUT IT! I know this seems counterproductive but if the ends are split you gotta get rid of them. There is no un-spliting ends, THEY ONLY GET WORSE. I don't subscribe to the trim every 3 month notion, but I do think it's important to keep the ends of your hair healthy. I normally cut spilts when I see them, and dust when I feel like my knots/splits are getting out of control. 

Bonus tip for relaxed heads.  Stretch your relaxers!

Hope this helps!
Peace
Erika

The Holy of Holy'

Hey Dolls,

So I have a confession to make. I have really been slipping on my deep conditioning as of late. I’m talking once a month MAYBE. *Gasps* I know I know but in my defense since I’ve been using terressentials mud wash my hair hasn’t really felt Super dry. 

I think one of the major reasons I’ve stopped DC’ing is because I haven’t found a deep conditioner that really makes anymore of a difference to my hair than my Yes to Carrots conditioner. So I was like why not eliminate the extra step? And save the extra $$

I would however like to step up my DC game for the summer, because I will be wearing my hair out a lot more, and experimenting with new styles, and I don’t want any setbacks!

I have been experimenting with a new deep conditioner and I think I’m in LOVE. It’s a variation of Naptural85’s Greek yogurt DC and it has already been promoted to the Holy Grail list. I am also in the process of looking for a store bought HG deep conditioner (because sometimes I get lazy) so for those of you that aren’t into mixing your own products stay tuned for that.

Here we go.

I always deep condition on dry dirty hair.

This mix adapted from Naptural85.

½ Cup of Greek(I bought low fat by mistake but it worked just as well) Yogurt

2 tablespoons of Oil (I’m using EVOO today, but I just pick whichever oil is handy at the moment)

1 tablespoon of Apple Cider Vinegar

10-20 drops of tea tree oil ( to stimulate growth, help with dry scalp and mask the smell)

Now you want to try to not get this on your scalp because the smell might linger on long after you’ve washed it out, but I didn’t have any issues with that.

Now I’m an airhead and I didn’t take any pics of me applying this mixture but I apply it in the same way I apply everything which is section by section. I also started at the ends and worked my way up.(Don’t let it touch your scalp, or try you best anyway)

When you’re done cover it with a plastic cap and let it sit for at least 15 minutes. You can leave it on as long as you want. I think I left it on for about 45 min.

wet hair before I washed

after washed and 85% dry

This DC left, my curls stretched and hydrated. My hair has never felt softer! I think this will be good for relaxed heads, transitioning and color treated heads because it has just enough protein without being over powering, and it helps you hair to retain moisture. The best part is, you probably have all the ingredients already in your house.

Try it.

I dare ya

XOXO

Erika

What a Difference a Year Makes..

Hey Dolls, Here is my very long overdue 1 year Nappy update. I know what you are thinking, but Erika you big Chopped in February and it's April. Well, what had happened wasss......... Ok long story short I was being lazy. I learned a lot about my hair last year and I hope to continue to learn even more this year.My goals are simple, keep my hair healthy and don't be so quick to grab the scissors. I also would like to experiment with styling my own hair more now that it's finnally "long enough" to try some of those amazing styles i've seen all over youtube. Anyway enough chit chat lets get to the good stuff. I went from this (Feb 2011)

to this(dec 2011)

and now this(April 2012)

Here's a look at my loose hair From this(Feb 2011)

to this (Dec 2011)

and now this (April 2012)

Here are some of my favorite protective/low manipulation styles Wigs

BOx Braids

Kinky twists

Phony Pony

Relaxers... 10 Things I Hate About You..

1. I Hate the way to make my hair feel like you killed it, even though it was never alive to begin with.

2. I hate that I can't sratch my scalp or you will make me pay.

3. I hate the way you felt that on time you got in my eye. It really FUCKING HURT!!

4. I hate that your so taboo

5. I hate that yyou burn my scalp.

6. I hate the way you smell

7. I hate that you come in SUPER. Really? Who needs a SUPER PERM HUh WHO?

8. I hate that you come in kiddie boxes. WHY oh WHY do parents, MOM, think that just cuz a little girl is on the box, that it's ok to use.ITS NOT OK, MOM. Put the perm down and step away from my sisters hair.

9. I hate the way you chew up other wise beautiful women's hair.

10. I HATE that I don't know how to quit you.

Updates: Wash day, Box Braids and going Natural!!!

Hey Dolls!

Wash Day came a littlee early this week mostly due to the fact that we are extremely short staffed at work so this week I am works 6 days instead of and I dont spend 1/2 of my ONLY day off washing my hair. I got off a 5 today and I don't go in unitl 5 tomorrw wich is pleanty of time to DC WASH and RE BRAID.

Anywho. I treid out Kimmaytubes, wash day method and I am not exaggerating when I Say it was the BEST WASH DAY EVER!!! I found Kimmytube when I decided I want to go natural(more on that in a minute) and I just fell in love with her videos. For this wash day I decided to give one of her methods a try. Here's what I did

1. Took my braids out gently finger combing each section as I went.
2. Applied my Deep Condtioner(Sally's GVP conditioning balm) to my dry hair.
3. Put on my plastic cap and Turbie Twist and took a nap for about 1 1/2 hours.
4. Then I got into te shower and applied Mane&Tail conditioner(any cheapie will do) on top of my DC then detangeled under the running water.
5. Then washed with my clarifing shampoo(Sulfur8) BUT before I rinsed I applied some more M&T to help with the stripped feeling. Then rinsed
6. Then I quick Condditioned with my Giavonni DeeEp Moisture while I did my shower biz.
7. LAstly rinsed and detangled under cool running water.
8. Then I applied my leave-ins(HE LTR, Aphogee) and Moisturzed with my Bioinfusion and sealed with Coconut oil.

I don't feel like re braiding tonight so I just put mt hair in to low pony tails and put on my satin scarf. I will re braid tomorrow before work which brings me to my next point..

I love LOve LOVe my box braids! the best low mani style for me. I can still moisturize and oil my scalp while still being able to enjoy the ease of braids.

and Lastly I have decided not to go natural YET!!! I still have every intention of going natural, but I really want to reach my first goal of SL just to have some tanglible evidence of progress. Then once I am there I will make my first attempt at transistioning.

Sorry for the lack of pics.
Peace
So Much Love
Erika

Dry Scalp Pre-Poo

Hey Dolls,
Sorry it's been so long, but I'm back with my dry scalp pre-poo.If you hadn't already guessed it, you can not have long heathly hair, without first having a healthy scalp. So once you've got your regiment, and your protective style, and you understand balance, the next thing you have to do is get your scalp in fighting condition. I am gooing to explore this topic over the next week or two, because I too have a dry itchy scalp, and I am interested in learning more ways to combat the problem. my dry scalp pre-poo is one major weapon in my battle against dry scalp.

I got the inspiration for this from Tracyee from KISS. I was using her pre-poo, but it didn't quite work for me as well as had hoped it would so I tweeked it alittle bit, and came up with a great combination of conditioner and essential oils that have really transformed my scalp. I relaxed last Sunday, so now my scalp is screaming for some lovin' so here's what I did...



oh and here's Tracyee's orignal recipe, if your scalp is dry, but not as bad as mine (it's the second post on the page so you have to scroll to the bottom)...

Peace
so Much Love
Erika

Why Protein is important

We already know about moisture and why it is important to our hair, but now it’s time to learn why protein is so important. Hair is made up of about 70% of keratin. This means that every time we relax color or even curl our hair we are damaging the natural proteins that exist in our hair. Without protein our hair would be weak and mushy and very very damaged. That is why it is so important for us to put the proteins back in. We can get some of what we need from food, but we still need a boost from products such as shampoos and conditioners, and moisturizers.

Although our hair needs protein, too much can cause dry brittle and broken hair. Protein overload occurs when there is not enough moisture present. Protein and moisture work together to keep hair healthy, and when there is too much protein present your hair will definitely let you know. The hair will become dry and brittle and break with little to no force at all. Protein overload is reversible, but unlike moisture over load it is not a one or two step process, and even once you do restore balance the damage is already done. When using protein there are a few simple rules to live by:

1. Always start with a light protein and work your way up to heavier ones. You never know how your hair will react in the beginning so take baby steps and you’ll be fine. (HERE’s a list of protein conditioners and their strength)

2. Always follow a mild to heavy protein with a moisturizing deep conditioner. No Excuses

3. Read the directions on the bottle, some may say safe to use everyday , while others may say only use once a week, and still others can say use until you see results then use on an as needed basis.

4. Alternate, moisture with protein. If you have a great light protein that you love, that’s fine use it, but don’t neglect your moisture. Maybe use a protein conditioner with a moisturizing leave-in. Just be careful not to use protein on top of protein. (HERE’s the list again)

5. If you are not sure if it’s a protein or moisturizer read the bottle, if it has works like strengthening or reconstructing or keratin, then you know it’s a protein. Even though it may be light, it’s still got some protein to it, and you should be aware of that fact before adding it to your regiment. Make adjustments if needed and you’ll stay balanced.

I don’t want to scare you away from protein, because you do need it, just as much as you need moisture, but I want you to be careful when adding it into your regiment, not to overdo it. Balance is the key. Stay balanced!

Peace
So much love
Erika

Healthy Hair pt 3 Moisture

My original hope for this post was to make one condense lesson on the importance of moisture and protein balance, but as I sat down to write I realized that there was just too much information that I didn’t want to leave out. Therefore I decided to write it in two parts, a part for moisture and a part for protein.

First I want to address why moisture is important, and how to recognize overly moisturized hair. The reason being is that if there is one thing I can stress to you, it would be always always always lean towards the moisture side of the scale. It is easier to come back from a moisture overload than it is to come back from a protein overload. Also black hair is very porous by nature so it is harder for us to retain moisture. If you have a lot of breakage and shedding going on it is probably because you are lacking moisture. Once again I will repeat I DO NOT KNOW EVERYTHING ABOUT HEALTHLY HAIR! I never claimed to be an expert, I’m just learning and sharing my information as I do so. To me once you’ve got your regiment, products and a protective style down then next step is learning about the delicate balance between moisture and protein.

Our hair is basically made up of water, lipids and keratin. Keratin is a strong, fibrous and insoluble protein that is also a major component on our nails. It is important for all women to maintain an equal balance of both protein and moisture, in order to maintain healthy hair.

Moisture alone isn’t enough for our pours hair, we also need to lock in the moisture with oil, or else the moisture will leave just as soon as you put it in. Oil DOES NOT MOISTUIZE HAIR. It simply helps seal in the moisture from your daily moisturizer. A key to a good moisturizer is water. Water based moisturizers are the only ones you should be using. This means water must be at the top of the ingredient list, and remember NO MINERAL OIL and NO PETROLERUM.

If you have been going along with my steps to starting a healthy hair journey, then you should already have a great moisturizer and sealing oil in your regiment. The next step is learning to listen to your hair. If your hair has too much protein then it will result in it being dry and brittle and it will break like crazy. Similarly, if your hair is over moisturized it will feel soft and mushy and it will stretch and stretch and stretch until it reaches its breaking point!

The best way to diagnose over moisturized hair is to do the wet test. After a wash or a deep condition examine your hair, gently comb thru it starting at the bottom and working your way up. If it breaks off just during normal combing then you know you’ve got a problem. The next step is figuring out if it’s a moisture problem or a protein problem.

Over moisturized hair as I said before is mushy and gummy feeling. Hair naturally has a certain amount of elasticity to it. Healthy hair will stretch to a certain point and then go back to its normal state. Over moisturized hair will stretch until it breaks off. To remedy this you must simply do a hard protein treatment. Usually one will work just fine, the key is know what proteins do what for your hair. My hair is slightly protein sensitive so all I do is a quick ORS mayo treatment, where as some ladies have to do a full on Aphogee two step treatment. Knowing what proteins work in you hair and which ones don’t takes time, but listen to your hair, because it will tell you what it wants. I tried to keep it as short and concise as possible, but incase you need some more info HERE is a great article to learn more about the moisture protein balance, I hope this helps! Stay tuned for my protein talk.

Peace
So much love
Erika

How to get Healthy Hair, pt 2

Ok so now you have your regiment and your products, you need a protective style. Protective styles are low/no manipulation hair styles that keep ends tucked away or up off of you clothing. Since the ends of the hair are the oldest and weakest part they should be treated like silk. Keeping your ends happy and healthy is the best way to retain length. Having a protective style is a key component in starting your hair journey. Now of course there are many low manipulation styles you can wear with your hair down, but I would advise most beginners to stick with the protective styles at least until your hair is healthier, and then you can try as many roller sets and Bantu knots and braid outs as you like.

Some of the most common examples of protective styles are buns, pony tails, wigs, sew-ins and braids. Just remember with the latter you still have to care for your real hair underneath. My protective style of choice are wigs. I love wigs because you get the look of freshly relaxed and curled/flat ironed hair without actually having to use heat. I also love wigs because you can get them in so many different styles and colors and textures. I usually keep my hair under my wigs braided in 2 French braids, I can’t cornrow to save my life. Each night I take the braids down and moisturize with HE none of your Frizzness(I don’t think they make it anymore) and seal with my oil mix. In the morning I spritz it with my aloe vera, rosewater, glycerin, neem oil spray and put my wig cap on and my wig and go.

If you are not comfortable with wigs you can also go the sew-in/braids route. The one thing I want to stress with that is make sure you keep your hair under moisturized and your scalp clean! One of the biggest reasons I prefer wigs is that I’m not sure that I can keep my hair moisturized under the sew-in well enough o not have any setbacks but a lot of woman do it every day so it is possible. Just do your research.

Then there is of course the bun. This is probably the easiest and most common protective style, but for a lot of us women with shorter hair buns are not always the easiest or cutest styles for us. For that I would suggest trying a Phony Pony or a clip on bun. I also found this method on youtube. Check it out. This woman has some amazing videos so check here channel as well:



If you already have long hair, or if you want to spice up a boring bun, check out this video. It is a great Bun tutorial, and she has many more on her page. She has great tips to jazz up plain buns.

How to get Healthy Hair, pt 1

Having recently discovered that LONG HEALTHY BLACK HAIR is NOT impossible, I was over the moon. Then I realized just how much effort it takes to actually achieve long healthy black hair. I spent countless hours on hair boards, blog sites and NING desperately trying to make sense of it all. There is so much information to filter it can be overwhelming, but the hardest part is knowing where to start. So because of how a mess I was when I started taking care of my hair I decided to a 3 part series how where to start with your journey. It won’t cover all the information, jus everything you need to know in order to begin. Then once you have a solid foundation it will make it so much easier to build from.

The first thing you need to do is take a picture! Pictures help you to notice the subtle changes that occur in the beginning of your journey. My advice is to take a picture of the back, front and sides of your hair. I like to take update pictures with each new relaxer, or if your natural, every 2-3 months. Taking an update picture every month is kind of like waiting for water to boil Rome wasn’t build in a day and neither was LONG HEALTHY BLACK HAIR. A lot of women make fotki’s(http://www.fotki.com/) to keep track of their pictures, but I just keep them in a dollar store photo album and I write the dates on the back. I know it sounds generic, but I prefer it that way because I feel like I notice more with a hard copy of the photo. I know it’s crazy, but that’s me lol.

Now that you have your picture the next thing I would suggest doing is making a regiment. Your regiment is a set of guidelines, things that to do to your hair daily, weekly and monthly. Beginners should start off with a simple regiment to insure that it is something you can stick to, because if you are not consistent than what’s the point? A simple regiment would be:

Moisturize and seal nightly
wrap hair with satin scarf every time you lay down
Wash once a week
Deep condition once a week
Clarify once a month
Use protein when needed


Now that you have a basic regiment you need to pick your products. What I would suggest in order to avoid becoming a PJ (product junkie) is to go through the things you already have and determining what products are good and which ones are bad. First throw out or give away anything with Mineral Oil or Petroleum in the first 5 ingredients. There are other things to look for too, but in the beginning just worry about the Mineral Oil and Petroleum and you will be fine. Once you have determined what you already have and what you need, then go shopping. You can read product reviews and ask other people on hair boards and blog sites(like this one, or this one, oh and don't forget this one) for direction, but as long as you are avoiding the bad stuff, everything else is really just trial and error to see how your hair will respond. So here’s what you will need:

Moisturizing Shampoo/Conditioner
Protein Conditioner
Moisturizing and protein DC(deep conditioner)
Leave in conditioner
Hair oil to seal in moisture
Moisturizer
Clarifying shampoo
Heat protectant

satin pillowcase/scarf/bonnet

I just want to stress on thing. DO NOT RUN OUT AND BY EVERYTHING THAT EVERYONE SAYS WORKS WONDERS! Everyone’s hair is different, and what may work for me may not work for you. Listen to your hair it knows what it likes and what it doesn’t. It will tell you, trust me. So my advice would be to try one thing at a time. If your current moisturizing shampoo is striping your hair, add some oils or some honey, use it up, and never buy it again. If it’s too stripping, give it away or throw it away, but don’t run out and by 3 different shampoos because you’ll be BROKE, and you will never really know which one is working.

Before I finish up, I want to suggest doing one last thing for your hair and that would be to keep a hair journal. This is for you to keep track of what works and what doesn’t. It’s good for storing information that you’ve found online about hair care, and just keeping up with your progress in general. Write it down, and look back on it when you need to!

Peace
So much Love
Erika